Category: General

Local Ice Update

The frost has been here for a while and on Wednesday we decided to head across the water on a day trip to Sweden. We wanted to have a look at the ice conditions in Skåne. We went out to Hovs Hallar not far from Båstad. It’s only 1½ hours drive from Copenhagen, so it is probably the closest quality ice climbing we can find around here.

The message is that Hovs Haller is in condition and Hovsfossen can be climbed on lead at WI5. The Quarry in Båstad still looks at bit thin, but the left fall should be climbable at least on top rope.

Morten climbing at Hovs Hallar

Morten climbing Hovsfossen in WI5 conditions on 8/2/12


Five days in Chamonix

Hans and I had the chance to do a quick raid to Chamonix this Easter. We left on Wednesday and went back home again on Monday. The conditions where quite good. There was some foehn activity on the Italian side of the Massif, but we managed to do 4 good routes in five days!

On Thursday we went to Aiguille Rouges for some warm-up climbing

Robin Wood (TD-,120m,6a)

Hans following ‘Robin Wood’ (TD-, 120m, 6a)

On Friday we went up to Midi to do some Rock Climbing on the South Face. It was quite windy so we changed our original plan of doing the Kohlmann to the more moderate (but very good)  Eperon des Cosmique (D+, 160m, V+) We had an outstanding day and despite the cold wind it was quite pleasant to touch the warm granite.

Eperon des Cosmique

Me above the roof on the crux pitch (5+/6a) (Photo by Hans)

We rapped of to the Cosmique hut after completing the climb.

Abseil from Eperon des Cosmique, Chamonix

Abseiling off Eperon des Cosmique

On the following day we wanted to climb the Contamine on Pointe Lachenal, but we woke up to a snowstorm so there was no rock climbing for us. All we could do was to make our way back to Midi and go down to the valley for some sport climbing.

On Sunday we where back in Aiguille Rouge and despite some rather low hanging cloud we managed to do two routes. ‘La Plage’ (D, 120m) and ‘La lampe d’Allardin’ (TD, 120m, 6a+)

Hans på toppen

Hans on the summit in Aig. Rouges

Four routes in in five days is not bad and I think our small trip was a success and even if we wanted to have climbed a bigger objective it’s just so good to be out in the mountains.

XML File doesn't exist

 


Hot and Cold

It’s been a while since I last had time to do some blogging, but I have have been busy traveling. In January I went a week to Tenerife with my family and some good friends. We went for general beach relaxation at El Medano, but also a bit of rock climbing. It was a super fun week! We climbed in the Arico gorge and a little bit at the Las Canadas plateau in the middle of the island. The plateau is located at 2200 meters so it was a rather chilly experience to climb here, but a little cold can’t distract from the fact that it is a marvellous setting with a view to the Teide volcano. In the Arico gorge it was warm and pleasant during the day.

I had fun shooting some pictures on a regular old fashioned SLR film camera. The film is the new Kodak Ektar 100 – I am quite pleased with the results so I hope you enjoy the pictures.

XML File doesn't exist

Horizontal Ice

Yesterday I finally managed to go ice skating on Lyngby Sø. The lake has been cleared of snow, so there is a lot of good skateable Horizontal ice. I went by the lake late in the afternoon and is was a true magical moment skating into the ice cold sunset.

Skating into the sunset on Lyngby Sø

On Lyngby Sø, skating into the sunset.


Bananna Park Open

I participated in the Banana Park Open climbing competition on the 8th of May. The reason for the competition was that a new climbing has been built here. The wall is rather impressive and is 14 meters high, featuring overhangs and 3D structures that gives it a real rock feel.

To spice things up I wore some rather colourful 80’s  climbing Lycra tights. The tights provided me with many laughs and comments. In the competition I came in at #8 out of approx 50 starters. The results can be found here

Anders climbing at Bannapark Open 2010

It was a good day, and I was quite happy with the result!


On the cover of Klatring

Me and my photos from Tenerife has made it to the frontpage on the May issue of ‘Klatring’. The frontpage photo was shot early in the morning with self-timer on the summit of El Teide, 3718m – The sun is just about to rise!

Klatring Frontpage

Inside the magazine there is a full featured story with more of my photography including the centerfold article about my Pico de Teide ascent.

Teide Article

(Click the picture to read the article in Danish)


Plans for 2008

In February 2008 Heidi, Sif and I will be on the island Tenerife for a whole month. I am really looking forward to this since my plans on the island include an ascent of the highest mountain in Spain ‘Pico de Teide’ 3.718m – a marvellous snow covered extinct volcano.

La Teide, 3.817m

Also in the plans are rock climbing and a good deal of relaxation together with Heidi and our young daughter Sif. Tenerife has several good areas for both bouldering and rock climbing. I really like going to the beach, but after a while I usually get bored and want to go climbing. Baby Sif is of course still to young to go climbing; hopefully she plans to sleep while I’m doing it.


Climbing Cartoons

The crazy danish duo Wullff/Morgenthaler has made some funny climbing related cartoons.

Don’t we all know the feeling?

Visit their great site and see more funny crazy drawings.


New Look

We are now running a new theme here on frontpoint-sport.com. The theme is called Transinnova Black by Mike Lopez. What do you think?


Hitting the lecture circuit

Fall and winter is the traditional time for me to do lectures. The summer climbing season is over, and for many this is the perfect time to go inside and enjoy interesting lectures about mountaineering. I have made an arrangement to give various lectures at AOF locations in Copenhagen.

I will give lectures on the Tatra Mountains on the 5th of October at AOF Rødovre and at AOF Hvidovre (2 shows) on the 11th of October. Check the respective AOF pages in order to see the details and schedule.