Monthly archives: January, 2011

Back in Rjukan

It was good to be back in Rjukan for a long weekend of ice climbing. This time I did not have super high ambitions since I really haven’t done much ice climbing recently. It was just nice to be climbing and having fun with my friends. Just being back on the ice was a good kick. I did not do anything hard, but I had a good time doing the moderates in Krokan and around the Vermok bridge. Simon and I climbed the classic WI5 ‘Sabotørsfossen’ on Saturday. After a late start and a bit of warm-up on Swingfoss we dispatched Sabotørfossen in about 1½ hrs. It got dark while we where doing the last pitch and we topped out in complete darkness. A super day on a fantastic route!

Sabotørfossen 2nd pitch

Simon starting the 2nd pitch on Sabotørfossen in Rjukan, Norway


2010 Highlights

The year has come to an end and it’s time to list the climbing highlights of 2010. My memory is off-course dominated by my 7 week summer road in the VW California. I’m listing my hardest ticks in each discipline, but please remember that climbing is far more than hard grades. My biggest and dearest memories from 2010 comes from just being on a long climbing road trip. I really enjoy the travelling lifestyle, climbing with old friends and making new friends during the trip. 2010 has been a good climbing year that has fuelled a lot of ambitions for the coming year.

Trad Multi Pitch / Alpine
Itaca nel Sole/ Rattle Snake, Valle Orco – 220 meter (ED, 6c) with Paoli Zanoli
Oceano Irrazionale, Val di Mello – 480 meter (VII) with Anders H. Pedersen in a day
Voie Rebuffat. Aig. du Midi South face, Chamonix – 200 meter (TD+, 6a+) with Morten Johansen


Roof section on the Rebuffat route midi south face

Me climbing the roof section on Rebuffat. Photo by Morten Johansen

Belay on Rebuffat

Belay on Rebuffat – Photo by Morten Johansen

Trad Single Pitch
Hollywood, Göteborg (7-)
Yosemite, Kullen (7-)
Stepper, Göteborg (6+)

Sport
Kong Hellig Hans, Bornholm (7a+, FA)
Monica Tesoro, Valle Orco (7a+)
Doigts de Fee pour coeour de lion, Chamonix (7a)

Ice
First Ascent of four 25 meter ice-falls (Grade III-V) in Ekkodalen on Bornholm, Denmark.

Isklatring Bornholm

On a Bornhom first ascent in Jan 2010. Photo by Kim Sørensen

Bouldering
Not much bouldering this year, but I have done some fine problems up to 6B/6C in France, Italy and in Sweden. I like to think of Bouldering mainly as a fun rest day activity.

Bouldering in Chamonix

Rest day in Chamonix. A fun 6B bloc!