Tag: Bornholm

2010 Highlights

The year has come to an end and it’s time to list the climbing highlights of 2010. My memory is off-course dominated by my 7 week summer road in the VW California. I’m listing my hardest ticks in each discipline, but please remember that climbing is far more than hard grades. My biggest and dearest memories from 2010 comes from just being on a long climbing road trip. I really enjoy the travelling lifestyle, climbing with old friends and making new friends during the trip. 2010 has been a good climbing year that has fuelled a lot of ambitions for the coming year.

Trad Multi Pitch / Alpine
Itaca nel Sole/ Rattle Snake, Valle Orco – 220 meter (ED, 6c) with Paoli Zanoli
Oceano Irrazionale, Val di Mello – 480 meter (VII) with Anders H. Pedersen in a day
Voie Rebuffat. Aig. du Midi South face, Chamonix – 200 meter (TD+, 6a+) with Morten Johansen

Roof section on the Rebuffat route midi south face

Me climbing the roof section on Rebuffat. Photo by Morten Johansen

Belay on Rebuffat

Belay on Rebuffat – Photo by Morten Johansen

Trad Single Pitch
Hollywood, Göteborg (7-)
Yosemite, Kullen (7-)
Stepper, Göteborg (6+)

Kong Hellig Hans, Bornholm (7a+, FA)
Monica Tesoro, Valle Orco (7a+)
Doigts de Fee pour coeour de lion, Chamonix (7a)

First Ascent of four 25 meter ice-falls (Grade III-V) in Ekkodalen on Bornholm, Denmark.

Isklatring Bornholm

On a Bornhom first ascent in Jan 2010. Photo by Kim Sørensen

Not much bouldering this year, but I have done some fine problems up to 6B/6C in France, Italy and in Sweden. I like to think of Bouldering mainly as a fun rest day activity.

Bouldering in Chamonix

Rest day in Chamonix. A fun 6B bloc!

First Ascent of Holka Risset

On Thursday I discovered a fantastic probably unclimbed line on the island of Bornholm, Denmark. It was only 6½m high, but what a line! A clean thin finger crack came down the grey granite of Holkadalen. It had to be climbed by me.

Should I climb it as a Route or just try to do it as a scary highball boulder? It looked hard and I figured that I would have no chance of placing gear while climbing.I brought out the crash pad and recruited Heidi as my spotter. It was hard, my fingers could barely fit in the crack and brutal finger locks was the only way of progress.

It took me a few tries to condition myself to accept the pain while jamming my fingers. I was at the point of resigning, but all of a sudden it all came together. What a fantastic line, this will surely become a classic.

The first ascent of Holka Risset

The first ascent of Holka Risset, 7a, Holkadalen, Bornholm, Denmark.