Tag: Kullen

New Discoveries

I have been climbing on Kullen in Sweden for more than 15 years. In other words it’s my local climbing crag, so I would like to think that I know the area pretty well. I went out to Kullen on Saturday with my friend Anders Vedersøe to do some trad climbing. It was the first time for me in a while climbing with a rope since I have been busy with my newborn daughter. I have only had time for bouldering and a bit of training at the climbing wall. It was very cool to be back on Kullen to discover the area of Vattenhjulet.

It’s incredible that after so many years of visiting Kullen, it’s still possible to discover new quality stuff. It was my first visit to this sector. It’s not a hugely popular area since it has a rather awkward abseil access, but I got very pleasantly surprised with the atmosphere, but also with the quality of the routes.

Abseil into Vattenhjulet

Abseil into Vattenhjulet

Oligmal, 6-

Climbing Oligmal, 6-

What a nice day!

Almost too cold for rock climbing

I went to Dansk Bjergklub’s X-mas meet on Kullen last weekend. This involves climbing on very cold rock during the day and consuming insane amounts of Christmas food and alcohol at the club hut during the evening. The temperature was just above freezing and it is has a pretty masochistic feel to rock climb in conditions like this. We did however enjoy ourselves and had a good time on the rock and at the feast during the evening.

Anders (in green) leading Svenskerruten in cold conditions (Photo by C. Hylleberg)

Leading the classic Svenskerruten in rather cold conditions (Photo: C. Hylleberg)

Cool on Kullen

I am having a great time climbing all grade 7 routes on Kullen. If I keep up the pace I will run out of routes within a few years. This photo was taken by Camilla Hylleberg last weekend. We had a good time on one of the most impressive walls on Kullen ‘Vandflyvervæggen’ The route is ‘Harlekin, 7-‘ and it’s bolted, but only just. There are some very scary run out sections and the top is close to unprotected. It’s a good route in any case!

Anders Strange climbing Harlekin, 7- on Kullen

Anders Strange climbing Harlekin, 7- on Kullen