Author: <span>Anders Strange Nielsen</span>

2010 Highlights

The year has come to an end and it’s time to list the climbing highlights of 2010. My memory is off-course dominated by my 7 week summer road in the VW California. I’m listing my hardest ticks in each discipline, but please remember that climbing is far more than hard grades. My biggest and dearest memories from 2010 comes from just being on a long climbing road trip. I really enjoy the travelling lifestyle, climbing with old friends and making new friends during the trip. 2010 has been a good climbing year that has fuelled a lot of ambitions for the coming year.

Trad Multi Pitch / Alpine
Itaca nel Sole/ Rattle Snake, Valle Orco – 220 meter (ED, 6c) with Paoli Zanoli
Oceano Irrazionale, Val di Mello – 480 meter (VII) with Anders H. Pedersen in a day
Voie Rebuffat. Aig. du Midi South face, Chamonix – 200 meter (TD+, 6a+) with Morten Johansen


Roof section on the Rebuffat route midi south face

Me climbing the roof section on Rebuffat. Photo by Morten Johansen

Belay on Rebuffat
Belay on Rebuffat – Photo by Morten Johansen

Trad Single Pitch
Hollywood, Göteborg (7-)
Yosemite, Kullen (7-)
Stepper, Göteborg (6+)

Sport
Kong Hellig Hans, Bornholm (7a+, FA)
Monica Tesoro, Valle Orco (7a+)
Doigts de Fee pour coeour de lion, Chamonix (7a)

Ice
First Ascent of four 25 meter ice-falls (Grade III-V) in Ekkodalen on Bornholm, Denmark.

Isklatring Bornholm
On a Bornhom first ascent in Jan 2010. Photo by Kim Sørensen

Bouldering
Not much bouldering this year, but I have done some fine problems up to 6B/6C in France, Italy and in Sweden. I like to think of Bouldering mainly as a fun rest day activity.

Bouldering in Chamonix
Rest day in Chamonix. A fun 6B bloc!


Horizontal Ice

Yesterday I finally managed to go ice skating on Lyngby Sø. The lake has been cleared of snow, so there is a lot of good skateable Horizontal ice. I went by the lake late in the afternoon and is was a true magical moment skating into the ice cold sunset.

Skating into the sunset on Lyngby Sø
On Lyngby Sø, skating into the sunset.


Early season ice

It’s snowing here in Denmark. It’s like the winter have started early! Morten and I went to Kullen in this fine weather to check out the early season ice conditions. We had a grand day with ‘full-on’ conditions in the snow. I made a short Slide show/Video! Enjoy!

Early season ice on Kullen
Early season ice on Kullen (Photo: Morten B. Johansen)
Anders climbing aid on Kullen
Anders climbing aid on Kullen (Photo: Morten B. Johansen)


Memories from September

In September I participated in the Orco Trad Climbing Meet. Maurizio Oviglia has put together a nice slideshow with pictures from the meet. It brings back good memories from a fantastic meet.

Orco Trad Meeting 2010 from Orco Valley on Vimeo.


Testing myself against the Pros!

Let me put one thing straight: I am an amateur photographer! In other words it’s a hobby. I have a ‘real’ job as an IT Architect that pays  my mortgage and extravagant climbing holidays. While climbing and travelling I shoot photos and write articles. Some gets published here and others  get published in specialist climbing magazines.

But how do I rank against the pro sports photographers? Probably not very well, but I decided to put my skills behind the shutter to a test. On Sunday I went  to Lyngby Stadion to watch the Super-League game between Lyngby Boldklub and Sønderjyske. I bought a ticket and did not come with any photo accreditation, The  security wanted to see my camera bag, but otherwise had no objection in me taking a Nikon D3100 equipped with a cheapo Nikkor 55-200mm lens to the spectator stands. This was my first time ever shooting pictures inside a football stadium.

I found a place not far from the corner and started to shoot (hand-held off course)! The Pros where sitting next to the field with their huge lenses:

The Pros

The game got on and I shot some pictures, but after 10 minutes the crucial moment came. Lyngby was on the attack and got a shot at the Sønderjyske goal. It was illegally blocked with hands on the goal line by Sønderjyske #3 Michael Stryger. He was shown the red card by the referee and Lyngby was awarded a penalty kick. Lyngbys Kim Aabech scored on the kick and Lyngby went on to win the game by 1-0.

Let us see my pictures of the situation:

Rødt Kort / Red Card

#3 puts his hand on the ball

Situationen efter Stryger har haft hånd på bolden

The Lyngby player has seen the foul and puts his arms in the air

Dommeren har markeret

The line-ref has seen it and puts is flag in the air.

Lets have a look at the pros pictures, that I found on http://fodboldbilleder.dk – this site is run by Per Kærbye. A well respected sports photographer. He only got one shoot of this crucial game situation! – You can see it here

His other pictures from the game can be seen at http://fodboldbilleder.dk (Click the TAB Lyngby – Sønderjyske)

My full set can bee seen on flickr photoset where you see the full format pictures and study the EXIF data – or in this slideshow:

[flickrslideshow acct_name=”astrange” id=”72157625333792386″ width=”612″ height=”484″]

I am going to let the pictures speak for them self and not pass any judgements on photo quality, but I am quite satisfied with my own performance.


Climbing on 35mm

As promised in a previous post, I would tell you about my 35mm film experiments. I have had good fun shooting old-school film with the Nikon F80. I think the pictures have turned out  quite well and that they really have that smooth film look (off course they do, it’s film!) The pictures in the set have been shoot with Fuji Superia 200/ 400 and a Fuji  Sensia 200 colour slide film . Check my Flickr photo stream for details!

[flickrslideshow acct_name=”astrange” id=”72157625148087454″]


GBG Climbing

On Sunday we went climbing in Göteborg, Sweden. Together with Anders, Anders & Michael we left Lyngby at 6:30 in the morning. It was still dark, but when we got to the ferry in Helsingør the sun was starting to show.

Morning ferry to Sweden

Sunrise in Helsingør

A couple of hours later we where at Fjällbo just outside the centre of Göteborg. It was still cold and the temperature was just above freezing, but once the sun got on the rock it was warm enough to go climbing. We had a grand day doing many good routes. Utby/Fjällbo is a fantastic place to climb with quality trad routes all over the place.

A. Vedersø i Göteborg (Caligula, 6-)

Anders Vedersø leading Caligula (6-)

HP following on Slowfox

HP following my lead on Slowfox. We did a rather hard  grade 6 variation in the top.


Going Retro

I have recently acquired a used analogue  Nikon F80 SLR camera. It is equipped with a Nikkor 28-80mm,1:3,3-5,6 and a Kodak skylight filter. The whole kit was bought at a price of 50$ and is almost unused. I will be using this setup to document next weekends climbing trip to Göteborg, Sweden. We will see if I can remember how to handle a ‘real’ camera. I will post the result here, and write a few lines about the experience in shooting ‘Real Raw’ 35mm film

Going Retro

The chosen weapon shot at ISO1000 with my new Canon S95


CAAI Trad Meeting i Orco

I hele sidste uge deltog jeg i Club Alpino Accademico Italiano (CAAI) Trad Climbing Meet i Valle Orco nord for Torino. Vi var ca. 40 klatrere fra hele verden i smukke Valle Orco. Danmark var repræsenteret af Michael Hjorth og undertegnede. Vi havde en herlig uge sammen med de yderst venlige og hjælpsomme Italienske værter, som virkeligt var begejstrede for at vise deres område frem. Om dagen blev der klatret granit  jam-riss til den store guldmedalje og om aftenen blev der spist lækker Italiensk mad. Det var i det hele taget en fantastisk uge, hvor der blev skabt nye bekendtskaber fra hele verden.

Jeg har klatret et utal af ruter, som jeg nok skal liste senere! Den bedste var dog uden tvivl “Itaca nel Sole/Rattle Snake” på Caporal formationen. Ruten er  ca. 200 meter lang og er graderet ED, 6c (6a obbl.) – der er ingen borebolte i selve reblængderne, men standpladserne har normalt en bolt eller to. Kvaliteten af klatringen er ganske enkelt fremragende med både kamin/slabs og fantastiske jam-riss. Det lykkedes mig stort set at klatre ruten frit på nær et par hæng i de sidste tremmeligt anstrengende top-riss.

Der kommer en fuld rapport fra mødet i næste nummer af ‘Klatring’ – men i mellemtiden kan i kigge lidt på nedenstående slideshow og se min photo-stream på her

[flickrslideshow acct_name=”astrange” id=”72157625039883370″ width=”600″ height=”400″]


Chamonix Update

Morten og jeg har haft et par herlige da i Chamonix. Fredag brugte vi på sportsklatring lidt uden for Les Houches ved Copeau. Jeg fik sendt en fin 7a og Morten fik ram på en fin 6b+ og nogle gode 6b’ere

Ander sender 7a ved Copeau, Chamonix

Lørdag ville vi have lavet en lang rute i Aig. Rouges, men da vi kom op med liften stod vi midt i et lokalt whiteout og efter et par timers famlen rundt i tågen fandt vi aldrig indstigningen. Vi gik over til Index og klatrede lidt på Perroux ruten og afsluttende med normalruten, hvilket nu også var ganske spændede med 10 meters sigtbarhed.

Morten på vej op i tågen på Index

I dag var vejrudsigten heldigvis fin, så vi tog morgenliften på til Aig. Du Midi for at klatre den hyper klassiske Rebuffat rute på sydvæggen. Ruten er TD+ med lidt UIAA 6+ klatring i flotte riss på bombefast klippe. Vi var i fin form og det gik helt efter planen, vi havde en herlig dag i september solen mellem alle bjergene og stort set ingen andre mennesker på ruten.

Midi Rebuffat

Morten følger efter i 6+ cruxet i S-cracket

Midi Rebuffat

Morten i topkaminerne


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