Fall and winter is the traditional time for me to do lectures. The summer climbing season is over, and for many this is the perfect time to go inside and enjoy interesting lectures about mountaineering. I have made an arrangement to give various lectures at AOF locations in Copenhagen.
I will give lectures on the Tatra Mountains on the 5th of October at AOF Rødovre and at AOF Hvidovre (2 shows) on the 11th of October. Check the respective AOF pages in order to see the details and schedule.
Well! This is the first book review on frontpoint-sport.com. The book on review is called ‘Eiger, The Vertical Arena’ and it is written by Daniel Anker of Switzerland. As the title implies, this book is about the infamous Eiger Mountain located in the Swiss mountain range of Berner Oberland. As some of you will know, I have had some interesting mountaineering experiences on and around this mountain.?
Anders on Eiger North Face (Photo: Morten B. Johansen)?
The north face of the Eiger was the ‘Last Great? Problem’ of the Alps. The dramatic first ascent in 1938 by a German/Austrian team is described in detail, but also later attempts to climb the more direct lines is included. The extreme skiing attempts are covered in great detail. The photos throughout the book are very inspiring.? In short? this book contains everything you would like to know about the Eiger. This book is a highly recommended read, and a must for any aspiring Eiger climber.?
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‘The Vertical Arena‘ by Daniel Anker. ISBN: 0-89886-679-0
I have just returned after some very intense weeks of climbing in the Alps. We climbed in the Swiss Berner Oberland, Mt. Rosa Massif and Chamonix. We climbed alot of different stuff and we made an attempt to climb the infamous Eigerwand. We did not succeed, but it was a very exciting experience beeing in such a forbidden and historical place. Check out Mortens Johansens gallery.
Now it’s back to work, but there will probably be time for more outdoor climbing during the weekends. I am running a bouldering trip to Kjuge in August and I will also be going to the climbing areas around Göteborg in September.
According to the calendar the summer will soon arrive. This means rock climbing on sun soaked rock during the weekends. Our local Copenhagen area ‘Kullen’ (in Sweden) is a great place for such trips.
Last weekend was fairly ok. It rained all Saturday, so we went to watch a movie in the nearby town of Höganas. In the late afternoon the sun came out again and allowed to climb for the rest of the weekend. We had a good time on the north shores of Kullaberg!
As a funny gimmick, frontpoint-sport.com has designed a T-shirts with the text ‘Klatre POLITI’ Which basically translates to ‘Climbing Police’ Some will consider this as a friendly message to some of the more conservative persons in the Danish climbing community who often act as the ‘Climbing Police’ telling people what to do and trying to define the right way to climb.
We believe that everyone is free to climb as he or she feels like and that climbing is a matter of self expression, where we take responsibility for our actions. Don’t let other people tell you what to think. Think your own thoughts and decide!
The Tatra mountain range is not well known to western Europeans. It’s located on the border between Poland and Slovakia. The highest point is Gerlach, 2655m which is also the highest point in Slovakia. During the summer the Tatra is a dream destination for alpine rock climbing. The Rock is solid granite and you don’t have any nasty glaciers to worry about on the approaches. In the area you will find several hundred well established and well protected multi-pitch rock climbs. This is also one of the only alpine areas in Europe that has not been invaded by expansion blots. The mode of climbing is traditional.
In winter there is excellent ground for ice and mixed climbing adventures like the ones you can find in Scotland.
You can approach the chain from either Slovakia or Poland. From Slovakia the nearest hub is the city of Poprad. In Poland it is Zakopane.
Anders will be leading a trip for the Danish Alpine Club to the range in June-06
Further info about the Tatras:
The mountains and climbing topos
Last week I had the pleasure of being and skiing at St. Anton in the Arlberg valley of Austria. Austria and the eastern part of the Alps have lots of snow right now. During my visit we had about 35cm of new snow. So it is important to take care when you go off-piste since the danger of avalanches is quite high at the moment. On Sunday morning the snow level was meassured at 216cm at an altitude of about 2000 meters.
Fortunately we also had some fine sunny days last week that provided great powder conditions. The resort of St. Anton has a good concept of creating marked off-piste ski runs. These runs are not groomed or patrolled, but they are fairly safe from avalanches if you stay within range of the trail markers.
This is a fine safe ski concept. Other resorts should consider doing the same since it makes off-piste and free-ride very accessible in a relative safe way.
/ASN
The only ice climbing you can find on Danish soil is on the remote island of Bornholm in the Baltic ocean. There is little point in going there for the sole purpose of ice climbing, when you can find good solid ice conditions in Norway.
In southern Sweden only 1½ hours from Copenhagen we have a place by the sea called Kullen. This place is not known as a prime ice climbing venue, but more as a summer rock climbing destination. Due to it’s low altitude location so far south, the ice do not often come into condition. During cold winters you can however find some climbable ice on Kullen
Peter Harremoës on Originalruten (WI4, M5) 22/01/2006 
The manager of Frontpoint Sport, Mr. Anders S. Nielsen and fellow climber Mr. Morten B. Johansen will hold a lecture on their recent climbing trip to Caucasus. The lecture will feature both pictures and movies from the exciting adventure to the highest mountains of Europe.
The lecture will take place the 16th of Feburary on the premises of Dansk Bjergklub at Løvstræde 8A, Copenhagen. The show will start at 20:00
Frontpoint Sport må nu melde om udsolgt når det gælder de lækre Demon Super Cup tekniske isøkser. Der har været meget stor interesse omkring netop dette produkt. Det forstår man da også godt når man har set de fine anmeldelser i respekterede internationale klatremedier.
En af de meget roste detaljer er den såkaldte ‘tie-clip leash’ der er let at benytte også med handsker på. Dette har da også tidligere været et problem for undertegende da jeg klatrede med med Petzl’s system på ‘Charlet-Moser Quark’
Vi har bestilt nye varer hjem fra Raveltik der skulle ankomme i denne uge. Er du interesseret i et sæt Super Cup kan de fås i webshoppen for kun 2100 Kr. (Inkl. Moms)
