The summer of 2019 is almost over. It has been a nice summer with skiing on the Fonna glaicer in Norway, climbing on Kullen and Bornholm with great people and making new friends, Starting SUP Surf in Denmark and travel with the family in Jylland and Sverige. A great summer with many good memories for the dark time ahead 🙂
It’s been a while since my last post, almost a year. But summer the year also went to Bergell where we did all sorts of nice stuff. I climbed with my friend Mikkel. We did some fine routes in the Sciora group. At the Sciora hut we climbed the route ‘Bügeleisen’ a fine TD-, 14 pitch ridge climb right next to the impressive Piz Cengalo. Just short of a month after our climb, 4 million cubic meters of rock broke away and tumbled down, destroying the small village of Bondo.
Cengalo and Badile
Bügeleisen, TD-,450 – near the Sciora hut in Bergell.
This years summer climbing trip went to Italy and Switzerland in the Bregaglia mountain massif. Together with a bunch of other climbers we enjoyed the fine granite. The weather was a bit unstable, but we did get some nice routes climbed. The highlight of the trip was ‘Il Mosaico’ at the Albigna Dam. I climbed the route on the 25th of July with Stefan Jackobsen. The route follows cracks and link to the NE ridge with spectacular finish up the famous Fiamma. The grade is TD, 450m, 6b
Stefan abseils off the spectacular Fiamma (The flame) after climbing Il Mosaico
Its great to be back at the Trad Climbing Meeting in the Valle Orco in northern Italy. It’s my second time here and everything is just as beautiful as it was on my first visit in 2010. The Trad Meeting is organized by the Club Alpino Accademico and attracts people from all over the world to a week of climbing cracks in the day and eating good Italian food in the evening. On Monday we went climbing on a formation called Torre di Aimonin located near the small city of Noasca.
We started by climbed the excellent Via del Diedro (TD-, 140m, 6a) followed by the great classic Pesche d’Avrile (170m, 5c) – both routes well protected with trad gear.
Entering the diedre on Peche d’Avrile
Tuesday we climbed on the Sergant. Classic jam cracks like Incastromanina (6a), Locatelli (6a), Elisir d’incastro (6b+), Sir Biss (6c) where climbed. This is really an amazing place for granite crack climbing!
Climbing the wide crack of Sir Biss
On wedensday we had a bit of rain so Sport Climbing in the sheltered crack Bosco was on the agenda. More to follow..
I spend the Easter climbing granite in Italy. Specifically we climbed in the beautiful Valle delle Orco and in Cadarese in northern Italy. Superb rock, superb climbing and great company. A few shots from a memorable trip.
This years winter vacation was spent in Zell Am Zee, Austria. It was good to be skiing again and there where no problems with the knee. It’s exactly year since I had my ACL surgery, and in the beginning I was a but nervous and tense, but once I could feel the knee working like it should I started to loosen up.
It’s summer vacation in Austria. The Knee is getting better and I have started to climb again. It feels good to be back. The road to full recovery is still long, but it’s really nice just to do a few moves again.
I was out skiing on Vallåsen in Sweden on the 20th of December when I suffered a knee injury. I took a wrong landing on a kicker while skiing. It was not on the mono, but on regular skis. I ended up on the back skis while trying to stick the landing and while trying to recover, my ski slid out twisting my left knee. I could feel instantly that something was wrong and after a few minutes of lying down I tried to stand, but the pain was intense and the knee would not support my weight.
It hurt like hell and I had to be transported down on a snow scooter for medical care. At the hospital they did x-rays and could luckily confirm that nothing was broken. I do have some damage to the ligaments, but the extend is still unknown and will have to wait for an MR-scan.
I’m optimistic since here 5 days after the incident my knee is able to support me. With a bit of luck the injury will heel by itself in a couple of weeks.
For now I wish you all a Merry Christmas and a happy new year. I’ll be spending mine on the sofa!
Advanced Medicare with Bowmore Single Malt Scotch Whisky!
This winter season I’m bringing back the mono-ski. I have been on two planks for more that 30 years. Now it’s time to to try something different: A Mono-ski!
My setup is an Alpine Rocket 178 from Snowgunz in Chamonix! I’m Bringing Back The Mono in Scandinavia! Video to come soon, where I will ski the sickest lines on Mono!
I will also be racing in April at the Derby de la Meije, at La Grave, France. It’s a 2000 vertical-meter ungroomed downhill race through death chunks, crevasses, frozen debris and rock hard moguls. There are only two gates, one at the start, one at the finish and I’ll do it on the Mono! It will be my first ski racing since I as a kid in the late 80s had a brief spell with the Danish National Youth Team.
In my quest for monoski world dominance, I had that first slope session tonight. It went quite well! The mono is really a magnet of female attention. I wonder if I can handle the fame.