Author: <span class="vcard">Anders Strange Nielsen</span>

Valle Orco Trad Meet 2014

Its great to be back at the Trad Climbing Meeting in the Valle Orco in northern Italy. It’s my second time here and everything is just as beautiful as it was on my first visit in 2010. The Trad Meeting is organized by the Club Alpino Accademico and attracts people from all over the world to a week of climbing cracks in the day and eating good Italian food in the evening. On Monday we went climbing on a formation called Torre di Aimonin located near the small city of Noasca.

We started by climbed the excellent Via del Diedro (TD-, 140m, 6a) followed by the great classic Pesche d’Avrile (170m, 5c) – both routes well protected with trad gear.

Entering the diedre on Peche d’Avrile

Tuesday we climbed on the Sergant. Classic jam cracks like Incastromanina (6a), Locatelli (6a), Elisir d’incastro (6b+), Sir Biss (6c) where climbed. This is really an amazing place for granite crack climbing!

Climbing the wide crack of Sir Biss


On wedensday we had a bit of rain so Sport Climbing in the sheltered crack Bosco was on the agenda. More to follow..

Granite Easter

I spend the Easter climbing granite in Italy. Specifically we climbed in the beautiful Valle delle Orco and in Cadarese in northern Italy. Superb rock, superb climbing and great company. A few shots from a memorable trip.


Return Of The Mono

This years winter vacation was spent in Zell Am Zee, Austria. It was good to be skiing again and there where no problems with the knee. It’s exactly year since I had my ACL surgery, and in the beginning I was a but nervous and tense, but once I could feel the knee working like it should I started to loosen up.

Heidi and I made this little mono video!


Greetings from Austria

It’s summer vacation in Austria. The Knee is getting better and I have started to climb again. It feels good to be back. The road to full recovery is still long, but it’s really nice just to do a few moves again.

Anders bouldrer ved WolfgangseeAnders Bouldering at Wolfgangsee, Austria

Merry Christmas And A Minor Setback

I was out skiing on Vallåsen in Sweden on the 20th of December when I suffered a knee injury. I took a wrong landing on a kicker while skiing. It was not on the mono, but on regular skis. I ended up on the back skis while trying to stick the landing and while trying to recover, my ski slid out twisting my left knee. I could feel instantly that something was wrong and after a few minutes of lying down I tried to stand, but the pain was intense and the knee would not support my weight.

It hurt like hell and I had to be transported down on a snow scooter for medical care. At the hospital they did x-rays and could luckily confirm that nothing was broken. I do have some damage to the ligaments, but the extend is still unknown and will have to wait for an MR-scan.

I’m optimistic since here 5 days after the incident my knee is able to support me. With a bit of luck the injury will heel by itself in a couple of weeks.

For now I wish you all a Merry Christmas and a happy new year. I’ll be spending mine on the sofa!

Advanced Medicare with Bowmore Single Malt Scotch Whisky!

Bringing back the Mono!

Bringing back the Mono!


This winter season I’m bringing back the mono-ski. I have been on two planks for more that 30 years. Now it’s time to to try something different: A Mono-ski!

My setup is an Alpine Rocket 178 from Snowgunz in Chamonix! I’m Bringing Back The Mono in Scandinavia! Video to come soon, where I will ski the sickest lines on Mono!

I will also be racing in April at the Derby de la Meije, at La Grave, France. It’s a 2000 vertical-meter ungroomed downhill race through death chunks, crevasses, frozen debris and rock hard moguls. There are only two gates, one at the start, one at the finish and I’ll do it on the Mono! It will be my first ski racing since I as a kid in the late 80s had a brief spell with the Danish National Youth Team.

In my quest for monoski world dominance, I had that first slope session tonight. It went quite well! The mono is really a magnet of female attention. I wonder if I can handle the fame.

Mono session on Vallåsen. Camera by C. Hylleberg

Back from Cham

Just back from spending 10 fine days in Chamonix climbing with friends and Team Mammut who sponsored me with a brand new classy alpine outfit. A *BIG* thanks to Mammut and all who made this possible. See the gallery below for a few impressions. My climbing partner Morten Johansen has also made a nice gallery here

Testing Cheap Glass. Nikon 28-80mm f/3.3-5.6G on D7000

It’s always fun to test diffrent lens/camera combos.

Today I went to Tivoli, Copenhagen with my family. It was a fine summer day, but I was not really in the mood for photography, but in order to try something different i took an old Nikon 28-80G that normally sits on my rarely used 35mm Film SLR and put it on my D7000

Nikkor AF 28-80mm G


It felt like a really lightweight combo, and although the lens felt like a fragile plastic toy I was pleasantly surprised by the outcome. The pictures seem sharp enough with decent contrast, and I will definitely shoot this lens again if I need a light weight mid-range zoom.

It does not compare to the 35mm f/1.8G AF-S DX or the Sigma 17-70 mm f/2.8-4.0 OS HSM that I regularly use, but once stopped down I found the 28-80G to be a solid performer on a DX. For the sub 50$ price point, it’s almost ridiculously good.

Well, the pictures are here, so judge for yourself. They are un-cropped jpgs as they came out of the camera.

Pictures in ‘Klatring’

I got a few pictures from Bornholm and Bohuslän in the latest issue of ‘Klatring’. The magazine can be read on-line here, but it’s really stunning to see in print.















Klatring 1/2012 – Can be downloaded here!

It’s really good that we have a magazine like ‘Klatring’ here in Denmark! Big thanks to the editors – it’s a privilege to contribute to such a quality production!

Local Ice Update

The frost has been here for a while and on Wednesday we decided to head across the water on a day trip to Sweden. We wanted to have a look at the ice conditions in Skåne. We went out to Hovs Hallar not far from Båstad. It’s only 1½ hours drive from Copenhagen, so it is probably the closest quality ice climbing we can find around here.

The message is that Hovs Haller is in condition and Hovsfossen can be climbed on lead at WI5. The Quarry in Båstad still looks at bit thin, but the left fall should be climbable at least on top rope.

Morten climbing at Hovs Hallar
Morten climbing Hovsfossen in WI5 conditions on 8/2/12

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