Last weekend was spent climbing on the Island of Bornholm. Bornholm is located in the Baltic Sea and it is the only place on Danish soil where you can find real rock. The climbing is on granite and is mainly single pitch cragging and bouldering. The island is peaceful and secluded so it is a fine place to get your batteries recharged. We only met one other climbing team during the whole weekend. The weather was also really nice so basicly there was no excuse for not getting totally wasted – Just Perfect!
There are other reasons for going to Bornholm than climbing. The nature is wonderful and there are a lot of interesting medieval historic sights worth seeing. The castle of Hammershus is just spectacular.? There is an online climbing guidebook and you can find more tourist type info on Bornholmer Info
We will be going there in three weeks for one week of good climbing, we’ll see how it will be!
Hi Julian,
Sounds like fun! I would definetly like to know what you think about it. As you probably know it is a trad adventure climbing venue. I suppose you have had a look at the online guide on http://bornholm.danskbjergklub.dk
If needed I will be happy to give you a few pointers on where to go!
Best Regards,
Anders
Hi Anders,
yeah I am pretty sure, we’re going to have a great time. We sure had a look at the two websites with lots of infos and topos on all the routes. But if we could get some inside information that’ll be real cool: We are a group of five and only one of us has been doing real rock climbing so far, we got all the necessary eqiupment, freinds, slings, hms etc. etc. In a climbing hall we are all climbing a german 5 properly, working hard and good on the 6 and scratching on the 7. So if u have any advice on where to go and what would be appropriate for us, i would be yery thankful! Thanks in advance
Julian
Hi Julian,
It sounds like you should be able to have good time on Bornholm. Based on your information you should start at a place where it is easy to setup some top-ropes so you can get the feel with the rock before going out on lead.
For this purpose I will recommend ‘Hammerbrudet’ located at Opalsøen. It is very easy to setup top ropes with some nuts and slings on the classic Hammercrack, 6- and also on the ‘Chip & Chap’ wall located at the same spot. If your friend is up to leading a few routes he should by all means have a go at the ‘Hammercrack’ – it is a super route that offers good protection with nuts and cams.
The area around Opalsøen can be very busy and if this is the case you should head out to ‘Hammerkysten’ to the areas around Lindesdal and North of Lindesdal. There are many nice routes and also some great bouldering. A classic on Hammerkysten is ‘Flydende Salewa, 6-‘ on ‘Salewa Væggen’ – this wall offers good protection and top ropes can be arranged.
Once you are in shape and ready for leading then ‘Vang Syd’ is the place to go. The routes here have to lead-climbed, since it is a bit awkward for access to arrange top ropes. Lot’s of super routes in the whole grade spectrum. Some classics are ‘Lænestolen, 6-‘ and the very hard ‘Hurtigruten, 8-‘
A tour of climbing on Bornholm is not complete without going to ‘Randkløve Skåret’ – There are many nice routes here on good rock. The best routes are found in and just south of the gorge. The classic is ‘Sorte Else’ a very nice grade five; top-ropes can be arranged.
I hope you will enjoy your trip, and please let me know what you think of the place 🙂
Best Regards,
Anders