Five days in Chamonix

Hans and I had the chance to do a quick raid to Chamonix this Easter. We left on Wednesday and went back home again on Monday. The conditions where quite good. There was some foehn activity on the Italian side of the Massif, but we managed to do 4 good routes in five days!

On Thursday we went to Aiguille Rouges for some warm-up climbing

Robin Wood (TD-,120m,6a)
Hans following ‘Robin Wood’ (TD-, 120m, 6a)

On Friday we went up to Midi to do some Rock Climbing on the South Face. It was quite windy so we changed our original plan of doing the Kohlmann to the more moderate (but very good)  Eperon des Cosmique (D+, 160m, V+) We had an outstanding day and despite the cold wind it was quite pleasant to touch the warm granite.

Eperon des Cosmique
Me above the roof on the crux pitch (5+/6a) (Photo by Hans)

We rapped of to the Cosmique hut after completing the climb.

Abseil from Eperon des Cosmique, Chamonix
Abseiling off Eperon des Cosmique

On the following day we wanted to climb the Contamine on Pointe Lachenal, but we woke up to a snowstorm so there was no rock climbing for us. All we could do was to make our way back to Midi and go down to the valley for some sport climbing.

On Sunday we where back in Aiguille Rouge and despite some rather low hanging cloud we managed to do two routes. ‘La Plage’ (D, 120m) and ‘La lampe d’Allardin’ (TD, 120m, 6a+)

Hans på toppen
Hans on the summit in Aig. Rouges

Four routes in in five days is not bad and I think our small trip was a success and even if we wanted to have climbed a bigger objective it’s just so good to be out in the mountains.

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Spring in Bohuslän

Spring is here and we went climbing in Bohuslän!

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Days in the sun

Just back from a week in Gressoney, Italy. We had fantastic weather with sun all over. The snow pack was decent, but off course there is not much powder snow in such conditions. We skied all over the place between Alanga, Gressony & Champoluc. It’s a ski fantastic areas that has skiing up to over 3300 meters. Especially the off-piste from Punta Indren is spectacular.


Hot and Cold

It’s been a while since I last had time to do some blogging, but I have have been busy traveling. In January I went a week to Tenerife with my family and some good friends. We went for general beach relaxation at El Medano, but also a bit of rock climbing. It was a super fun week! We climbed in the Arico gorge and a little bit at the Las Canadas plateau in the middle of the island. The plateau is located at 2200 meters so it was a rather chilly experience to climb here, but a little cold can’t distract from the fact that it is a marvellous setting with a view to the Teide volcano. In the Arico gorge it was warm and pleasant during the day.

I had fun shooting some pictures on a regular old fashioned SLR film camera. The film is the new Kodak Ektar 100 – I am quite pleased with the results so I hope you enjoy the pictures.

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Back in Rjukan

It was good to be back in Rjukan for a long weekend of ice climbing. This time I did not have super high ambitions since I really haven’t done much ice climbing recently. It was just nice to be climbing and having fun with my friends. Just being back on the ice was a good kick. I did not do anything hard, but I had a good time doing the moderates in Krokan and around the Vermok bridge. Simon and I climbed the classic WI5 ‘Sabotørsfossen’ on Saturday. After a late start and a bit of warm-up on Swingfoss we dispatched Sabotørfossen in about 1½ hrs. It got dark while we where doing the last pitch and we topped out in complete darkness. A super day on a fantastic route!

Sabotørfossen 2nd pitch
Simon starting the 2nd pitch on Sabotørfossen in Rjukan, Norway


2010 Highlights

The year has come to an end and it’s time to list the climbing highlights of 2010. My memory is off-course dominated by my 7 week summer road in the VW California. I’m listing my hardest ticks in each discipline, but please remember that climbing is far more than hard grades. My biggest and dearest memories from 2010 comes from just being on a long climbing road trip. I really enjoy the travelling lifestyle, climbing with old friends and making new friends during the trip. 2010 has been a good climbing year that has fuelled a lot of ambitions for the coming year.

Trad Multi Pitch / Alpine
Itaca nel Sole/ Rattle Snake, Valle Orco – 220 meter (ED, 6c) with Paoli Zanoli
Oceano Irrazionale, Val di Mello – 480 meter (VII) with Anders H. Pedersen in a day
Voie Rebuffat. Aig. du Midi South face, Chamonix – 200 meter (TD+, 6a+) with Morten Johansen


Roof section on the Rebuffat route midi south face

Me climbing the roof section on Rebuffat. Photo by Morten Johansen

Belay on Rebuffat
Belay on Rebuffat – Photo by Morten Johansen

Trad Single Pitch
Hollywood, Göteborg (7-)
Yosemite, Kullen (7-)
Stepper, Göteborg (6+)

Sport
Kong Hellig Hans, Bornholm (7a+, FA)
Monica Tesoro, Valle Orco (7a+)
Doigts de Fee pour coeour de lion, Chamonix (7a)

Ice
First Ascent of four 25 meter ice-falls (Grade III-V) in Ekkodalen on Bornholm, Denmark.

Isklatring Bornholm
On a Bornhom first ascent in Jan 2010. Photo by Kim Sørensen

Bouldering
Not much bouldering this year, but I have done some fine problems up to 6B/6C in France, Italy and in Sweden. I like to think of Bouldering mainly as a fun rest day activity.

Bouldering in Chamonix
Rest day in Chamonix. A fun 6B bloc!


Horizontal Ice

Yesterday I finally managed to go ice skating on Lyngby Sø. The lake has been cleared of snow, so there is a lot of good skateable Horizontal ice. I went by the lake late in the afternoon and is was a true magical moment skating into the ice cold sunset.

Skating into the sunset on Lyngby Sø
On Lyngby Sø, skating into the sunset.


Early season ice

It’s snowing here in Denmark. It’s like the winter have started early! Morten and I went to Kullen in this fine weather to check out the early season ice conditions. We had a grand day with ‘full-on’ conditions in the snow. I made a short Slide show/Video! Enjoy!

Early season ice on Kullen
Early season ice on Kullen (Photo: Morten B. Johansen)
Anders climbing aid on Kullen
Anders climbing aid on Kullen (Photo: Morten B. Johansen)


Memories from September

In September I participated in the Orco Trad Climbing Meet. Maurizio Oviglia has put together a nice slideshow with pictures from the meet. It brings back good memories from a fantastic meet.

Orco Trad Meeting 2010 from Orco Valley on Vimeo.


Testing myself against the Pros!

Let me put one thing straight: I am an amateur photographer! In other words it’s a hobby. I have a ‘real’ job as an IT Architect that pays  my mortgage and extravagant climbing holidays. While climbing and travelling I shoot photos and write articles. Some gets published here and others  get published in specialist climbing magazines.

But how do I rank against the pro sports photographers? Probably not very well, but I decided to put my skills behind the shutter to a test. On Sunday I went  to Lyngby Stadion to watch the Super-League game between Lyngby Boldklub and Sønderjyske. I bought a ticket and did not come with any photo accreditation, The  security wanted to see my camera bag, but otherwise had no objection in me taking a Nikon D3100 equipped with a cheapo Nikkor 55-200mm lens to the spectator stands. This was my first time ever shooting pictures inside a football stadium.

I found a place not far from the corner and started to shoot (hand-held off course)! The Pros where sitting next to the field with their huge lenses:

The Pros

The game got on and I shot some pictures, but after 10 minutes the crucial moment came. Lyngby was on the attack and got a shot at the Sønderjyske goal. It was illegally blocked with hands on the goal line by Sønderjyske #3 Michael Stryger. He was shown the red card by the referee and Lyngby was awarded a penalty kick. Lyngbys Kim Aabech scored on the kick and Lyngby went on to win the game by 1-0.

Let us see my pictures of the situation:

Rødt Kort / Red Card

#3 puts his hand on the ball

Situationen efter Stryger har haft hånd på bolden

The Lyngby player has seen the foul and puts his arms in the air

Dommeren har markeret

The line-ref has seen it and puts is flag in the air.

Lets have a look at the pros pictures, that I found on http://fodboldbilleder.dk – this site is run by Per Kærbye. A well respected sports photographer. He only got one shoot of this crucial game situation! – You can see it here

His other pictures from the game can be seen at http://fodboldbilleder.dk (Click the TAB Lyngby – Sønderjyske)

My full set can bee seen on flickr photoset where you see the full format pictures and study the EXIF data – or in this slideshow:



I am going to let the pictures speak for them self and not pass any judgements on photo quality, but I am quite satisfied with my own performance.


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