A few days at Fontainebleau

I have just returned from a few days in Paris. I was visiting an old friend who lives outside Paris in the small city of Recloses near the forest of Fontainebleau. Fontainebleau is a bouldering mecca. I am not a hardcore boulder, but I did manage to do some nice 6th degree Bleau problems.

Anders Bouldering in Bleau

Anders executes a dyno (Photo by Bo Nortvig)

Bleau is a fine place with a very special relaxed atmosphere. The sandstone climbing is highly technical and you will be punished instantly if your technique is not up to the task. The climbing is very ‘family friendly’ and so you could easily bring your non-climbing friends. This is a perfect place to learn the first moves on the rocks.


Summer & Rain

Last Thursday was spent on Kullen. It was raining when we left Copenhagen and it rained on Kullen as well. We got wet, but we also managed some climbing between the showers. This is me leading Aero (7-) on Gubbamalen

Anders leading Aero 7- on Kullen

Thomas Boesgaard made a fine movie by leaving his camera on the ground while belaying me.


Danes climb Eiger Nordwand

Well done!

Szilas on the Hinterstoisser traverse

Kristoffer Szilas and Allan Christensen has climbed the Eiger Nordwand over two days during the easter. They had a bivy at the classic ‘death bivuak’. Pictures and story on http://danskbjergklub.dk/forum/showthread.php?t=1044


The (T) and (B) ratings

T Rated Cascade Pick

Many climbers seem puzzled by the concept of (T) and (B) ratings on ice axes. Let me try to explain this concept. Axes are either rated (T)echnical or (B)asic. All climbing axes are rated (T) per default. The confusion arises because the picks are also (T) and (B) rated. (T) Rated picks are stronger and heavier. They are primarily designed for mixed climbing where rock work is involved, they are however also suited for normal icefall climbing. (B) Rated picks have finer blades and are only suited for pure water ice climbing.

For Scottish mixed or hard alpine climbing I would recommend the use of (T) rated picks as (B) rated picks may not be strong enough for mixed climbing.


Training Update

I’m still following my training regime as outlined in my last post. I have had to rest a few days during the Christmas and new-year holidays, but now I am at it again. For the last couple of days I have had some slight pain in my right shoulder, probably due to overtraining. I try to listen to my body, so for the rest of the week, I will go easy on hard bouldering and focus more on technique and mental exercises.
As ‘training manual’ I can highly recommend Eric J. Hörst’s Training for climbing This book is a very comprehensive training bible that covers everything from specific workouts to nutrition.

As mental training I have read The Rock Warriors Way by Arno Iligner. Arno’s book gives you a total mental training program and provides useful insight on how to approach the climbing sport from a mental point of view.


Power is coming my way!

I am currently training climbing three times a week and it is starting to show. For a while I felt totally wasted, but now I start to feel strong – it is a wonderful sensation. I have done some of the boulder projects that only a month ago seemed utterly impossible. My training goals are within the context of 2007 to:

* Achieve my hardest Trad Redpoint

* Achieve my hardest Sport Redpoint

* Become a better ice climber

* Climb one of the 6 alpine north faces (Eiger, Matterhorn, Jorasses, Badile, Dru, and Cima Grande)

Besides climbing I have made a resolution to train something every day. Swimming and Running does it for me, when not climbing. I only take rest days when needed. The great thing is that it is no problem to run even if my upper body is aching like never before (and it actually helps)

So far my training regime has been successful, but I suspect that at some point I will have to battle with motivation.


Climbing Cartoons

The crazy danish duo Wullff/Morgenthaler has made some funny climbing related cartoons.

Don’t we all know the feeling?

Visit their great site and see more funny crazy drawings.


Cure for the winter blues

Even though it is not winter yet, the fall? is still dark and wet around here. No ice and only cold wet rock or plastic to be climbed. I decided to cure the blues by spending a week on the Island of Corsica in the Mediterranean Sea. That was one great idea! Corsica is simply a fantastic place. Sunny sculptured granite, sandy beaches and beautiful nature. Even in late October it was possible to? take a refreshing dip in the sea. The air temperature was hovering around 23 degrees during the day, the water around 20 – just perfect.

The beach of Roccapina - notice the famous Lion!

The famous Roccapina Beach?

The Col de Bavella is without doubt the Premier climbing location on the island of Corsica. A road from Sulenzara on the East coast, to the town of Zonza? splits the Col down its middle. A Stop on the valley rim is almost obligatory by all new comers to the area and gives you time to take in the view and then photograph it.?

Anders Climbing on Col de Bavella

Anders climbing on Col de Bavella?

Another fine location? is the beach of Roccapina. A wonderful sandy beach surrounded by yellow granite. Read more about this place and other Corsican climbing sites? at Planetfear.

If you want to explore the old towns of Corsica you might take a look at Bonifacio located on the extreme south of the island. The famous action movie The Guns Of Navarone was shot here. We went on a sea trip from Bonifacio and had a chance to see Bonfacios waterfront. Very impressive!

The Guns Of Navarone

The Guns Of Navarone?

I’ll be back for sure!


Bornholm Climbing

Last weekend was spent climbing on the Island of Bornholm. Bornholm is located in the Baltic Sea and it is the only place on Danish soil where you can find real rock. The climbing is on granite and is mainly single pitch cragging and bouldering. The island is peaceful and secluded so it is a fine place to get your batteries recharged. We only met one other climbing team during the whole weekend. The weather was also really nice so basicly there was no excuse for not getting totally wasted – Just Perfect!

A fine roof

There are other reasons for going to Bornholm than climbing. The nature is wonderful and there are a lot of interesting medieval historic sights worth seeing. The castle of Hammershus is just spectacular.? There is an online climbing guidebook and you can find more tourist type info on Bornholmer Info


New Look

We are now running a new theme here on frontpoint-sport.com. The theme is called Transinnova Black by Mike Lopez. What do you think?


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